About the Peaks of the Balkans (EXTENDED)
At a glance...
Countries: Montenegro, Albania, and Kosovo
Group size: 4-18
Duration: 16 days/ 15 nights
Activity: Trekking and sightseeing
Travel style: Guided
Difficulty grade: Moderate to strenuous
Comfort: Various (hotels, guesthouses, home-stays, and mountain huts)
We couldn’t be more excited to introduce this gem of an adventure. The “Peaks of the Balkans” trek is the winner of multiple prestigious global awards and offers a truly unique and immersive adventure travel experience. When the trail was first created in 2012, the intention was to help redefine the understanding of the Balkans as a place with more to offer than a region of conflict.
Mission accomplished.
The trail runs through a mountain range called The Accursed Mountains, also known as the Albanian Alps. While the name lends itself to all sorts of obvious metaphors, hiking here is much more of a blessing than anything else. With some of Europe’s most pristine scenery, ancient pastoral traditions little-altered by modern life, and a title to capture the imagination, the Accursed Mountains make for a wild holiday with a palpable element of time travel. The trail winds through largely uninhabited areas and tiny settlements where residents are seasonal shepherds and farmers living a lifestyle of a bygone era. The locals are warm, welcoming, and are always anxious to share a laugh.
These peaks, which span the borders of Montenegro, Albania, and Kosovo, were once difficult to access, especially during the days of communist control. No longer. Nowadays, the trek has become an off-the-beaten-path destination, and people from around the world are coming to visit this very remote area. In fact, the area is loosely referred to as the “Nepal of the Balkans.” The mountains are clearly not as high as in the Himalayas, but they are definitely more lonely and untouched.
We are thrilled to offer two versions of “The Peaks of the Balkans” that are entirely unique to Hobnail Trekking Co. Grab a beverage of choice, get comfortable, and spend some time exploring the itinerary and highlights!
Click the video below for a short welcome from our Hobnail Montenegro team, Momir and Gordana Stanojevic.
Peaks of the Balkans (EX)
Dates are subject to slight changes. These treks will proceed with groups of at least 4 with a maximum of 18.
- July 4-19, 2024
- September 19 — October 4, 2024
Peaks of the Balkans (ex) Details
Old world charm of Kotor
Kotor is situated at the end of a fjord-like bay on the Adriatic Sea and is surrounded by steep mountains. It is known for its beautiful medieval architecture, including the well-preserved old town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Hike in areas free from mass tourism
Although the Peaks are becoming more popular, they are still an undiscovered gem relative to almost any other trekking destination on the globe. Traffic on the trail will be very light.
Village of Theth
Situated in northern Albania’s Shkodra region, this unique mountain village — reminiscent of Bilbo Baggins’ Shire — has the most dramatic setting in Albania. Theth National Park combines the beauty of mountains with majestic rivers, stunning waterfalls, and lagoons as blue as one could ever imagine. Enjoy it before the word gets out!
Valbona Pass
On a clear day, Valbona Pass reveals breathtaking views of the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps – Maja Jezerces (8,840 ft), Maja e Boshit (7,925 ft), and Maja Madhe (8,400 ft) – as well as two equally stunning valleys — Valbona on the east, and Theth on the west.
Summit of Trekufiri
At 7,760 feet, Trekufiri means “three borders” and it makes total sense — this is the triangle where the borders of Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo meet.
Grebaja Valley
A narrow valley wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (8,075 ft) and surrounded by high sharp peaks resembling the titanic jaw of a Balkan wolf, the Grebaja Valley is one of the most awe-inspiring in the entire Balkan region.
Ropojana Valley
The Ropojana Valley, formed long ago by a glacier over 16 miles long, features a pupil-shaped karst spring where an ice-cold river is born from melting snow high up in the mountains. The mountain-framed corridor takes us past a dry lake, shepherd huts, and an abandoned military post right into the heart of the Albanian Alps. A weathered borderstone is the only reminder of the once tightly sealed borders of former communist Albania.
Rozafa Castle
The Rozafa Castle dates back to the Illyrian period, and has been rebuilt and expanded many times throughout its history by various rulers, including the Venetians and Ottomans.
According to legend, the castle was built by three brothers, and during its construction, they noticed that the walls kept collapsing at night. An old man appeared to them in a dream and told them that in order to ensure the walls would stand, they needed to sacrifice one of their wives by walling her up alive in the foundation. The brothers agreed to do this and chose Rozafa, the wife of the youngest brother. She agreed to be sacrificed under the condition that her right eye, her right breast, and her right arm be left uncovered so that she could see her child, feed him, and comfort him. Today, a statue of Rozafa breastfeeding her child stands at the entrance to the castle.
- Hobnail Trekking Co. long-sleeve trekking shirt and ball cap
- Custom Hobnail mobile app
- Lots of freebies
- Opportunities to get to know your fellow trekkers include an invitation to a private Facebook group for your trek, group training hikes if trekkers live in proximity to each other, and other local social gatherings
- Accommodation for 15 nights in a mix of hotels, guesthouses, homestays, and mountain huts
- All meals on the trek as specified in the itinerary
- Local, English-speaking leader and guides
- One or more support vehicle drivers and pack animals and their handlers
- All National Park fees, entrance fees, taxes, and permits
- Arranging the issuance of border crossing permits
- Daily luggage transport to the next accommodation of one soft bag up to 20 kg per person
- All ground transfers and baggage transfers as listed in the itinerary, including airport transfers
- The company of new friends and the experience of a lifetime
- Travel insurance (See the Travel Insurance section on this page for details)
- International flights
- Entrance Visa
- Meals not included on the itinerary
- Drinks other than table water
- Tips for leaders, guides, and porters (we’ll give you guidance on this)
- Spending money, including for souvenirs
- Personal trekking equipment (hiking boots, clothing, etc.)
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, etc.)
- All expenses associated with nonscheduled departure
OK, here’s where we get serious. Hobnail requires that all trekkers purchase travel/medical insurance that covers them properly for all trekking activities.
There are a lot more details you need to know about travel insurance than we want to put in this limited space — including stuff about trip cancellations and what company we recommend — so when you’re ready, pop over to our Travel Insurance page.
We consider our treks to be adventures, not vacations. We’re not Hobnail Vacation Company, after all! Don’t get us wrong; we like vacations as much as the next person, but with our treks, you need to be physically and mentally ready. Here’s what we ask of you:
- You thoroughly read all the information we send you prior to departure.
- You get yourself an accountability partner and train properly. This doesn’t mean doing a few squats two weeks before departure.
- You familiarize yourself with your gear prior to leaving. Practice adjusting your backpack, filtering water if necessary, etc.
- If you purchase new boots, they are broken in well in advance of departure.
- When on trek, you FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS OF YOUR GUIDE. His or her only concern is helping you achieve your goal safely and in good health, but this won’t happen unless you follow their advice. This includes – but is not limited to – food recommendations, speed of pace, when to sleep and when not to, when to walk and when to rest, when to turn around due to illness, etc.
- When on trek, you treat your guide and the locals you encounter with the utmost respect. We are guests in their country and very grateful to be there.
All of these things may seem like common sense — and they are — but we feel that we must mention them. Hobnail’s goal is to provide you with the best experience possible, and you have an important role in achieving that goal.
A few days after registering for a trek (with at least a $500 deposit), we will give you a call (if you’re available) to say hello and answer any initial questions you may have. If you have a Facebook presence, we will also invite you to join a private group page just for your trek. This is a great way to interact with your fellow trekkers, and possibly your guide, before departure. You can post questions in the group anytime you’d like, talk about the cool gear you’re planning to take with you, organize group hikes if you live near each other, and generally just get to know those who will be sharing this incredible experience with you.
Within the first weeks after your trek is confirmed, you will receive a Welcome Box from us. It contains stuff that you can use during training as well as on the trek itself, and some other just fun things to get you (even more) excited about your trip.
You’ll also receive a login to our Hobnail app, which is full of great information including a day-by-day schedule, nearby points of interest, beautiful photography, and yet another way to contact us – through its messaging service. As your trip gets closer, we will load your flights and other more specific information into the app so you’ll feel even more secure in knowing where you’ll be staying and even how to get around the airports you’ll travel through.
The closer you get to your trek, the more you’ll hear from us — but of course, you can reach out any time you have a question.
Our Mobile App
When you book, we send you the login credentials to your own, customized app. By departure, your app will contain your flight info, passport, travel insurance docs, and COVID info, as well as your full itinerary, points of interest, and other amazing stuff.
TREK ITINERARY
Day 1: Arrival in Montenegro, wine tasting, welcome dinner
Welcome to the Balkans!
On arrival, you will be met by your trek leader and transferred by a private, comfortable vehicle (approx. 6.2 miles, 15 minutes) directly from Podgorica Airport to the city of Podgorica.
After check-in and refreshments (or nap) in a 4-star hotel, you will enjoy getting to know the capital of Montenegro and its rich cultural heritage, including the Old Town, clock tower, Ribnica Fortress, and archaeological sites like Doclea and Medun. Optionally, and depending on the time of your arrival, we can organize a visit and wine tasting at the wine cellar belonging to the largest vineyard in Europe.
Later, you’ll enjoy a welcome dinner at a local restaurant with traditional Montenegrin cuisine. Yum.
Accommodation: 4-star hotel in Podgorica
Meals included: Lunch (depending on arrival), dinner
Day 2: Podgorica (131 ft) - Cetinje - Kotor
After breakfast, you will be transferred (21.8 miles, 45 minutes) to Cetinje, the beautiful old town which was the capital of Montenegro from the 15th century until 1918. Cetinje is also known as the “Museum Town of Montenegro”, for good reason. The National Museum of Montenegro here is a complex institution that comprises five museums as well as several former residences that are major cultural-historical monuments in their own right.
A tour of King Nikola’s museum is a unique opportunity to get familiar with the rooms that hosted some of the most significant events in Montenegrin history. Authentic artifacts will help you understand the habits and lifestyle of the Royal Family of Montenegro.
The next stop is the Memorial Museum, Biljarda, dedicated to the great Montenegrin spiritual and secular ruler, writer, and philosopher, Petar II Petrovic Njegos. One of the most representative images of Cetinje and one of the most famous and important spiritual relics in Montenegro is the Orthodox St. Peter of Cetinje Monastery.
Further, you’ll find yourself in the village of Njegusi, hidden deep in the stony terrain of Lovcen, the cradle of bishops and rulers from the Petrovic Dynasty. You’ll stop for around 30 minutes at the restaurant here so you can taste the famous Njegusi cheese and smoked ham. Once you’ve completed that (delicious) attack on your taste buds, you’ll continue down the road, eventually reaching the Lovcen Pass (around 3,280 feet), at which point the Gulf of Kotor reveals itself in glorious picture-book clarity.
The biggest and most important monument of Lovcen National Park is the Mausoleum of Petar II Petrovic Njegos. The mausoleum is officially the highest in the world because it is situated at the top of the second-highest peak of the Lovcen mountain, Jezerski Vrh (5,435 ft). Getting there takes a bit of effort because you’ll need to climb 461 steps up to the entry where two granite giants guard the tomb of Montenegro’s beloved writer. When you arrive at the top, take a deep breath of fresh air and look around. You will be amazed at the view of the Bay of Kotor, Skadar Lake, and the high mountains of the northern part of Montenegro and our trekking destination — the Albanian Alps.
Finally, you’ll head down to the waterfront and the walled town of Kotor. Squeezed into a small triangular wedge at the very end of a long, narrow bay, in the shadow of Mount Lovcen, the medieval walled town of Kotor is indisputably the jewel in the coast’s crown.
The Bay of Kotor is sometimes referred to as Europe’s southernmost fjord, but it’s actually an ancient river valley. In any case, the winding shoreline and the picturesque villages along the way make the bay definitely worth exploring. As you walk past the most beautiful belvederes, all with amazing views of the bay, pick out your favorite and see if your fellow trekkers agree.
In Kotor, you will enjoy a 1-hour walking tour in the Old Town section. Despite being a major tourist attraction, Kotor hasn’t lost its authentic charm. The architecture is distinctly Venetian and it’s one of the best-preserved medieval old towns on the Adriatic coast. From your local tour guide, you will get a chance to learn and hear some of the most fascinating stories and facts from its rich and long history. By the end of the tour, you’ll understand exactly why this town has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
After the village tour, you will enjoy lunch in a local restaurant before traveling 25 minutes to the nearby small town of Perast. First, you will visit St. Nikola Church where you can climb the very steep, narrow staircase to the top of the tower for a simply stunning view. Trust us on this.
Then you’ll take a boat trip to the only man-made islet in the Adriatic Sea, Our Lady of the Rocks. Legend has it that this islet was made over centuries by local seamen who kept an ancient oath after finding an image of a Madonna and Child on a rock in the sea in 1452. They vowed to lay a rock in the bay every time they returned from a successful voyage. Eventually, those rocks created this islet. A stunning Catholic church was built here by Venetians in 1630.
Once you return to shore, you’ll get back on the road and head to your hotel.
After this long day, you will enjoy typical coastal Montenegrin specialties for dinner. It won’t disappoint.
Accommodation: 3-star hotel in Kotor
Meals Included: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Day 3: Kotor (3000 ft) – Budva – Skadar Lake – Theth, Albania (2445 ft)
Today, we will visit Budva, a Montenegrin metropolis of tourism famous for its long beaches, beautiful Old Town, and festivals and cultural events held throughout the year. You will have a guided tour through the Old Town of Budva, where you will have the opportunity to admire stone buildings from the Venetian era, small squares, narrow streets, and amazing sea views.
One of the nicest spots in the Old Town is the “square between the churches.” Unsurprisingly, there are several churches by the square, with the oldest dating back to 804 AD.
After you’ve roamed the streets for a while, we recommend heading up to the Citadel, which provides stunning views of Budva Old Town as well as the mountains and Adriatic coast surrounding it. Make sure you’ve got your camera with you because the view makes for some brilliant photos!
From Budva, you will continue to Praskvica Monastery, slightly north of the island of Sveti Stefan, which is known as the most photographed place in Montenegro.
From here, you will enjoy a stunning view of the island. Years ago, Sveti Stefan was a fisherman’s village, but it has since been restored and converted into an exclusive luxury resort known as the Aman Sveti Stefan. The small island retains its charm thanks to its 600-year-old buildings with beautiful orange rooftops. Its location on the Adriatic coast means it’s surrounded by an incredibly blue sea. You’ll have no problem understanding why it’s the most photographed.
Continuing along the panoramic road beside the coast, you’ll come to Virpazar, a fishermen’s town located on the bank of Skadar Lake. The town is tiny but incredibly picturesque, with lots of flower boxes and restaurants with outdoor tables. You will have the opportunity to take a 90-minute boat ride on Skadar Lake, the biggest lake in southeast Europe and the undiscovered treasure of the Balkans.
Skadar Lake is the largest bird reserve in Europe and is home to 40 species of fish and 264 species of birds. You will ride on a dense blanket of water lilies, plunge into the clear water of the Skadar Lake, watch the beautiful birds at close range, and, of course, take a lot of beautiful photos.
Next, you’ll travel to the incomparable village of Theth, Albania, a small hamlet at the foot of the Peaks of the Balkans trail and the starting point of our trek. (This drive will take around 3-4 hours.)
Theth is a unique mountain village that boasts the most dramatic setting in Albania. Theth National Park combines the beauty of the mountains with majestic rivers, stunning waterfalls, and lagoons as blue as one could ever imagine.
Edith Durham, a famous English traveler and writer on the Balkans, visited Theth in 1908. She wrote of its seclusion: “I think no place has where human beings live given me such an impression of majestic isolation from the entire world. It is a spot where the centuries shrivel; the river might be the world’s well-spring, its banks the fit home of elemental instincts – passions that are red and rapid.”
Established in 1966, Theth National Park covers an area of 6,500 square acres and ranges in altitude from approximately 3,935 ft to 8,420 ft (summit of Mt Radohima). This picturesque beauty is fit for any postcard or painting, but nothing comes close to seeing Theth with your own eyes.
You’ll have a meet and greet with your local guide before the briefing that covers your itinerary. For dinner, you’ll enjoy typical Albanian specialties.
Accommodation: Guesthouse in Theth (double or triple occupancy)
Meals Included: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Day 4: Theth – Waterfall of Grunas - The Blue Eye of Theth
Today’s walk doesn’t have many gradients but is rich in culture. The first point of interest you’ll see along the trail is Kishna e Thethit — the Church of Theth — which dates back to 1892. Next you’ll visit the Blood Feud Tower, a four-sided stone structure over 400 years old, and discuss the “Kanun of Lekë Dukagjin,” the century-old oral regulatory code of the mountains.
You’ll continue to the Waterfall of Grunas, an impressive sight with a nearly 100-foot-high cascade of plunging water. A swim may seem tempting, but be warned— the water comes straight from the heart of the Albanian Alps and is downright icy! The rugged and narrow canyon of Grunas in close proximity adds to the magical atmosphere, with crystalline waters running through it for more than 3,280 feet.
Upon crossing the canyon, a 40-minute hike will take you into the heart of the village of Nderlysa. In this village, you will discover Vaskat e Gurit (literally ‘Stone Bathtubs’), which are awe-inspiring rock formations carved out by the Black River and set amongst crystal-clear turquoise waters. Post-hike, there is no better place to take a refreshing dip!
You’ll then hike further to the narrow valley of Kaprre. The Black River descending from the village of Kaprre creates yet another majestic pool — The Blue Eye of Theth. It is a karst pool fed by a gushing mountain stream that enters from the valley of Upper Kaprre. With a rich-blue color and surrounded by lush greenery, the Eye is a magical sight. The bravest (or craziest!) of your group can take a dip in the icy waters.
Finally, you will trek back to Nderlysa where a transfer will take us to Theth for dinner and overnight at the same guesthouse as yesterday.
Difficulty Level: Easy
Hike Details: 5.6 miles, ▲ 740 ft ascent, ▼ 1640 ft descent, 6-7 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse in Theth
Day 5: Iconic hike from Theth to Valbona, Albania (3265 ft)
Today is a big day.
You will do one of Albania’s most iconic hikes – from Theth, over the Valbona Pass (5,890 ft), to the valley of Valbona in the heart of the eponymous national park. Valbona National Park covers an area of more than 30 square miles in the surrounding valley, walled in by massive mountain peaks such as Maja Jezerces, Maja Rosit, and Maja Kolata.
The 8.7-mile route follows the path of an ancient mule track linking the tribal regions of Shala and Nikaj. The hike is a continuous ascent through an ancient beech forest, shaded and lovely. Up and up you will go until you reach the pass with views all the way down to Valbone Valley, your next destination. The trail winds through a narrow crest that reveals a view of both valleys. The path is the most traveled trail of the Albanian Alps and it remains the only direct connection with Valbona Valley.
When reaching the top of Valbona Pass you will experience a serious shot of adrenaline. On a clear day, you’ll have breathtaking views of the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps (Maja Jezerces at 8,840 ft, Maja e Boshit at 7,925 ft, and Maja Madhe at 8,400 ft), and across two valleys (Valbona on the east, Theth on the west).
From there the rocky path continues downhill toward the springs of Valbona and a forest trail that will lead you to the village of Rrogam (3,610 ft). You will continue a couple of miles further on a dry riverbed before reaching your guesthouse. Horses and mules have carried your baggage here, to your next guesthouse.
After this whole-day hike, relax before a well-deserved dinner.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Hike Details: 8.7 miles, ▲ 3445 ft ascent, ▼ 2625 ft descent, 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse or hotel in Valbona
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 6: Valbona - Persllopit Pass (6690 ft) - Cerem, Albania (3775 ft)
This will be yet another amazing day.
There are two possible routes from Valbone to Cerem: the low valley route, and the spectacular high route via the Persllopit Pass — which is the one we recommend. The high route is quite demanding but also very rewarding, revealing views of the steep rocky mountains of Kollata, which are popular among climbers. The low trail is mostly a dusty road offering less in terms of scenery but quite suitable for those who would like to have an easier walking day. (We will make this decision based on the wishes of the group.)
After a short transfer, you will have reached the starting point of the trek. First, you have a long ascent to the Persllopit pass that has been looming in front of you. Step by step you climb over lonely alpine pastures and through shady forests, with the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps always in view. Past the pastures, you’ll reach a treeless alpine valley where, surrounded by rock, the solitary mountains are all yours.
Over a unique ice cave and through a karst labyrinth that requires surefootedness, you’ll pass over the border and into the territory of Montenegro. Halfway through the descent, you may find a very rare endemic plant: Lilium albanicum, the Albanian Lily. Keep an eye out, because it’s beautiful!
After an hour, the grassy plateau leads to another lower pass and you return to Albania, meeting shepherds on your way to the rather isolated village of Cerem.
You’ll descend into a gorgeous valley populated by shepherd families living in the shadow of a stunning, Yosemite-like wall of granite uplift. This off-the-beaten-track destination is an area of outstanding natural beauty thanks to the lush green meadows alongside rustic farm buildings that are topped with traditional wooden roof tiles.
Without mobile phone coverage, everyday life here is a world away from what you’re used to – and that’s a very good thing. In Cerem, you’ll spend the night in a simple guesthouse. The warm hospitality of your hosts and the hearty traditional dinner with ingredients fresh from the garden make up for the rustic accommodations.
This leg is one of the most strenuous, but beautiful and satisfying, stages of the Peaks of the Balkans trek and any mountain lover will enjoy walking it.
*Note: If the weather doesn’t permit crossing the Persllopit Pass, we will walk a shorter route through a canyon to reach our guesthouse in Cerem.
Difficulty Level: Moderate to strenuous
Hike Details: 8.7 miles, ▲ 3610 ft ascent, ▼ 2790 ft descent, 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse in Cerem
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 7: Cerem – Dobërdol, Albania (5740 ft)
Today involves a transfer hike from Cerem to Dobërdol, a remote village accessible only by mule tracks and populated exclusively during summertime by shepherds.
You’ll start on foot over undulating terrain in beautiful alpine scenery, leaving Cerem and the Kollata mountains behind. Your bags are loaded on horses once again and you make your way first on a forest path with grassy clearings, then on a gravel road, until reaching the Montenegrin border. Continuing into Montenegro territory, you’ll hike for a while until you come to the ruins of the old military border post. Continuing on, you’ll take a break in the hamlet of Balqin, which is used by shepherds during the summer season. Several springs and creeks along the way are safe sources from which to fill your water bottle.
The last leg of the walk takes you to the valley of Gashi, a UNESCO Natural World Heritage site as of 2017. You will arrive at the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol, where domestic animals roam freely among the grazing grounds and time appears to be frozen. The main attractions in Dobërdol are the glacial lakes of the Dobërdol-Sulbicës plateau. This is the perfect, most pristine location to relax for the afternoon.
Here, locals still live in harmony with nature, as humankind did millennia ago. In the simple shepherd huts, you trade 21st-century comfort for the warm hospitality of your hosts. The family will prepare your meals as you learn more about the seasonal lifestyle of the shepherds while you sit around the campfire.
Without any light pollution, here you can plainly see the Milky Way in a clear sky.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Hike Details: 9.6 miles, ▲ 3360 ft ascent, ▼ 1475 ft descent, 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Mountain hut with basic facilities
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 8: Rest day in Dobërdol
Today will be a rest day in beautiful Dobërdol Valley, with a short hike to the alpine Dashit Lake.
Dobërdol Valley is nestled at an altitude of 5,905 feet above sea level and is devoid of trees. Shepherds spend three summer months here with their herds in the valley, allowing their animals to graze in the high pastures and adding a side income by collecting herbs and berries. More recently – and to our great benefit – they’ve begun hosting guests. During the winter months, the locals leave the valley and take their animals back down to stay in their permanent homes.
Depending on the group’s wishes, you may take a walk to the glacial lakes of Dobërdol and Sylbica. Lake Dashit is the jewel of the entire area, with a diameter of about 165 feet and located at an elevation of 7,053 feet. Another option would be to ascend Maja e Kershit Kocajve peak (7865 ft). The views from the top, especially of the turquoise alpine lakes below, are impressive.
The valley is crossed by the river and surrounded by swamps and canals which have kept the rich flora and fauna alive for decades while helping it flourish, undisturbed by humans.
Difficulty Level: Easy
Hike Details: 5 miles, ▲ 1475 ft ascent, ▼ 1475 ft descent, 4-5 hours
Accommodation: Mountain hut with basic facilities
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 9: Hike from Doberdol to Milishevc, Kosovo (2985 ft), summit tour on Trekufiri (7760 ft)
This long stage of the trek involves a hike from the remote shepherd’s village of Dobёrdol to another, less-remote shepherd’s village in Kosovo – Milishevc.
You’ll fuel up at breakfast because the longest stage of your journey lies ahead of us — around 11.2 miles. You’ll start by climbing approximately 1,970 feet over barren, rocky meadow paths up to the summit of Trekufiri. The name Trekufiri means “three borders” and it makes total sense — you are in the triangle where the borders of Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo meet!
You then will follow the mountain ridges to the Roshkodol Pass at 7,410 feet, where you may still see snow in early summer. You’ll descend and reach the treeline again, hiking through coniferous forests and crossing a river valley before making the last ascent to the village of Milishevc. Tonight we will sleep again in small mountain huts.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Hike Details: 11.2 miles, ▲ 3000 ft ascent, ▼ 3215 ft descent, 8-9 hours
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 10: Milishevc – Rugova Gorge, Kosovo - Orthodox Christian Monastery near the town of Peja, Kosovo (1804 ft)
The interesting transfer hike to the Rugova Gorge begins with an ascent to the Lumbardhi Ridge, a vantage point that offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. The ridge (6990 ft) is the last obstacle that separates us from the Rugova Gorge.
You’ll begin by conquering the challenging ascent hike to the ridge and then the steep descent to Rugova Gorge. The barely visible route up to the crest is rewarded with amazing views towards Gjeravica Mountain (the highest peak in Kosovo at 8715 ft) and Marjashi Peak, which is southwest of our position. Hidden behind the ridge, extensive grazing grounds surround the pond at the foot of Mt. Red Rock (Guri i Kuq, 8275 ft). Most pastoral grounds were abandoned and are now used only for recreational purposes; the Lumbardhi Alps is one of the few exceptions where livestock is still tended to on a greater scale.
Beyond this sea of grass, the mountain plunges deep down into the Rugova Gorge. Across, the ridge of Hajla promises you a panoramic hike tomorrow. Your descent follows north along the mule tracks, dirt roads, and some junctions until we reach Rugova Gorge. The main road is located next to the river in the gorge, and you’ll take a short minivan transfer to visit the UNESCO-protected Monastery of the Patriarchate of Pec. Because the entire complex dates from between the 1230s and the 1330s, it is not only the center of the Serbian Orthodox Church but also an important repository of its cultural heritage.
After the monastery visit, you continue with a 40-minute minivan drive north to our guesthouse in the charming village of Reka e Allages.
Difficulty Level: Easy to moderate
Hike Details: 5.6 miles, ▲ 1640 ft ascent, ▼ 3935 ft descent, 5-6 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
DAY 11: Reka e Allages - Drelaj, Kosovo (3685 ft) - summit tour of Hajla (7885 ft)
After breakfast, you’ll begin with a hike over mountain meadows and through shady pine forests, up to the pass at the foot of Mount Hajla (7885 ft). This vantage point offers unobstructed views of the mountains and the city of Peja, all the way up to the Kosovo plains.
From here, you have the option to rest at the nearby mountain hut or continue up the steep trail to reach the peak. Multiple very steep and partially trail-less routes lead to the peak that forms the border with Montenegro. The ascent is optional, and you may choose to opt out to keep the day short (less than 5 hours). Daydream, read a book, or admire the surrounding flora instead. (You can do most of this at home, however, so take the hike to the peak.)
Though challenging, the climb to the summit will reward you with 360-degree views of the mountainous Kosovar and Montenegrin sides of the border, making clear why Montenegro earned the moniker “Black Mountains.” The typical Peaks of the Balkans trail doesn’t actually include summiting Hajla, but we believe it is worth it. Colorful mountain flowers and rare plants such as the edelweiss or the endemic Albanian lily grow along the way, and in late summer, you can find blueberries in the bushes.
You descend via another route and follow a high path down to your guesthouse in the picturesque hamlet of Drelaj. You will be delighted by another yummy dinner.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Hike Details: 15 km, ▲ 3770 ft ascent, ▼ 4265 ft descent, 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 12: Drelaj – Kuqisht, Kosovo (3950 ft) – Babino Polje/Plav, Montenegro (3085 ft)
Your day starts with a short scenic transfer (30 minutes) to the trailhead. The route climbs through an idyllic pine forest to the two emerald lakes of Liqenat (6070 ft). At their banks prospers a wide range of alpine flora, and above awaits the highest point of the official Peaks of the Balkans route, the Jelenak Pass (7455 ft).
Leaving the lakes, you’ll climb until you leave the forest behind and step into the mountains. The trail heads southwest, uphill to the Lugu i Shkodrёs Pass (Shkodra Pass, at 7180 ft). The pass is so named because it was part of an ancient path connecting the city of Peja with the city of Shkodra in Albania. Caravans have used this route for centuries to move silver and other goods to and from the coast. Today, it’s almost invisible.
You continue uphill to the Jelenak Pass and enjoy a rest stop with scenic views of the mountains above Plav, Theth, and Valbona. Sitting among a field of wildflowers, it is the perfect spot for lunch.
Next, the walk to Ravno Brdo Pass (7145 ft) is almost level, offering easy, therapeutic walking and good views. The last pass offers a magnificent view towards the rugged peaks ahead of us and into the lush valley of Babino Polje (“Grandma’s fields”) below. By mid-afternoon, you will reach Montenegro and the village of Babino Polje.
From Babino Polje, a 90-minute transfer by minivan takes us past the tranquil Plav Lake to our guesthouse in Grebaja Valley.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Hike Details: 9.3 miles, ▲ 3775 ft ascent, ▼ 3445 ft descent, 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 13: Grebaja Valley, Montenegro – Prokletije massif (8840 ft)
You’ll begin the day by ascending through a shaded beech forest, followed by a steep climb to the double peak of Popadija and Talijanka (6745 ft). From the top, there is a magnificent view – first to the nearby Karanfili, and then to the Prokletije massif and down to the beautiful valley of Grebaja. Here the hostile mountain walls seem almost within your reach as your gaze is drawn across the border, into the Kelmend region of Albania. You’ll choose the most suitable route, a ridge walk offering staggering views of the craggy Karanfili Mountains, nicknamed – with good reason – the “Dolomites of Montenegro.”
The Grebaja Valley, a narrow valley wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (8075 ft), is one of the most awe-inspiring in the Balkans. The valley is U-shaped, surrounded by high sharp peaks resembling the titanic jaw of a Balkan wolf. This is a true paradise for outdoor lovers and is a “must-see” for everyone hiking the Peaks of the Balkans trail. It is only a slight detour from the official route and is truly something you will never forget.
During the return journey, you will pass the rock carvings (petroglyphs) dating from the Neolith Age of 600 years B.C. Among other Paleolithic carvings, you’ll find a primitive drawing of a wolf attacking a child. Yikes!
Traversing the narrow spine to a series of panoramic viewpoints, and back onto the shaded forest path, is where this circular hike ends. In a garden on the valley floor, you’ll celebrate your achievement and this incredible adventure. Well done, you.
Difficulty Level: Easy to moderate
Hike Details: 6.2 miles, ▲ 3115 ft ascent, ▼ 3115 ft descent, 6-7 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 14: Ropojana Valley -Through the Heart of the Accursed Mountains - Theth
A short transfer after breakfast brings you to the village of Vusanje (Vuthaj), where you’ll load your bags on horses and begin the long hike to Theth Valley. Traveling up the Ropojana Valley, formed by a 16-mile-long glacier, we stop at a pupil-shaped spring called “Sava’s Eye” (similar to Blue Eye of Theth) where an ice-cold river is born from melting snow high in the mountains.
The mountain-framed corridor takes you past a dry lake, shepherd huts, and an abandoned military post straight to the heart of the Albanian Alps. A weathered borderstone is the only reminder of the once tightly sealed borders of former communist Albania. The trail is flanked by the spectacular Karanfili massif on the right and Maja Jezerces – the highest summit of the Dinaric Alps – on the left.
Continuing on, you’ll come to the foot of Mt. Arapi (7275 ft), a canine tooth-shaped peak that stands high above Theth National Park, forming the largest big wall in the Balkans. Arriving at Peja Pass (5615 ft), you’ll stop for a picnic lunch with a fantastic view of the beautiful valley of Theth surrounded by an incredible panorama.
After lunch, you’ll travel down a steep well-trodden caravan path that leads past a small café where you’ll take a rest, and then, by a short minivan transfer, head to a guesthouse in the center of the lively village of Theth.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Hike Details: 8.7 miles, ▲ 3280 ft m ascent, ▼ 3115 ft descent, 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 15: Shkodra, Albania - Adriatic coastal town of Ulcinj, Montenegro
After a well-deserved good night’s sleep and a hearty breakfast, you will visit the city of Shkodra. Shkodra is one of the oldest cities in Albania and is located on the bank of Skadar Lake, within 12.5 miles of the Adriatic coast.
The city itself dates back to early antiquity, making it one of the most ancient places in the Balkans. You will visit Rozafa Castle first.
The crumbling but still impressive ruins date back to the days of ancient Illyria. The Romans captured the castle in 167 BC but most of the walls that stand today were built by the Venetians at a later point in the castle’s history.
The use of the castle continued throughout the medieval period, as it was taken by the Ottomans in 1478. There is a small museum inside where you can see Illyrian coins, Ottoman weapons, and the personal belongings of the local people. This castle is a fascinating relic, not to be missed.
Shkodra is also home to the ruins of the 15th-century Fatih Sultan Mehmet Mosque, which was built atop the remnants of the 13th-century St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Because of its position on a hill high above Shkodra, you’ll be able to see for miles in every direction from here. The views of the city, the river, the farmlands, distant mountains, and Lake Shkodra are truly awe-inspiring.
The focal point of the town is the square, where you can observe all religions coming together. A mosque, a Catholic church, and an Orthodox church all sit within a stone’s throw of each other. The city’s favorable geographic position has made it an important trading link for centuries, making it possible for different civilizations to encounter one another. The city is brimming with Albanian culture and history and is one of the best places in the country to immerse yourself in everyday Albanian life.
You’ll enjoy lunch in one of the seafood restaurants in Shkodra, well known for its high-quality fish.
After lunch, you will head towards Montenegro, crossing the border at Sukobin and continuing until you reach the town of Ulcinj on the Montenegro coast (about a 60-minute drive). Ulcinj is recognized even outside the borders of Montenegro for its very long and beautiful sandy beaches. You will relax and swim at the gorgeous Velika plaža beach (the Great Beach).
In the late afternoon, you will visit the Old Town of Ulcinj, which represents a unique example of the interweaving of the Oriental and Mediterranean urban and architectural concepts. The Old Town hosted the famous Spanish writer, Miguel de Cervantes, as a prisoner. He subsequently wrote the world-famous novel “Don Quixote.” Since the city’s name was Cita di Dolcinio, Cervantes named his hero’s mistress Dulcinea after the city where he was imprisoned for five years.
During your farewell dinner, you’ll celebrate the eventful trip with your new friends, recalling the two weeks of travel and celebrating the memorable journey through Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro.
Difficulty Level: Easy
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Day 16: Departure
After breakfast, you will be transferred to the airport in Podgorica. Depending on your flight schedule, you may have time to explore the Old Town of Bar.
Bar is one of the oldest inhabited places in Montenegro and is a city with a long and turbulent history, around which many armies and invaders have been scattered.
Thank you for joining us for this adventure! We hope you had a great time and that it’s not your last visit to this spectacular region.
Meals Included: Breakfast
GENERAL INFORMATION
About Montenegro
Montenegro was recognized as the 27th independent state in the world by the Berlin Congress, which occurred on July 13, 1878. For much of the 20th century, Montenegro was a part of Yugoslavia, and from 2003 to 2006 it was a component of the federated union of Serbia and Montenegro. Montenegro gained full independence in June 2006.
About Albania
Albania is a small, mountainous country in the Balkan Peninsula, with a long Adriatic and Ionian coastline. Along with neighboring and mainly Albanian-inhabited Kosovo, it has a Muslim majority — a legacy of its centuries of Ottoman rule. Around 20% of the population are Christians, divided mainly between the Orthodox and smaller Catholic denominations.
About Kosovo
Kosovo unilaterally declared independence from Serbia in February 2008, after years of strained relations between its Serbian and mainly Albanian inhabitants. It is recognized by the United States and some European Union countries.
After the break-up of the former Yugoslavia in the 1990s, Serbia responded to separatist pressure from Kosovo by launching a brutal crackdown on the territory’s Albanian population, which was only brought to an end by the NATO military intervention in 1999. Until 2008 the province was administered by the UN.
Peaks of the Balkans (EX)
Dates are subject to slight changes. These treks will proceed with groups of at least 4 with a maximum of 18.
- July 4-19, 2024
- September 19 — October 4, 2024
