About the Peaks of the Balkans
At a glance...
Countries: Montenegro and Albania
Group size: 4-18
Duration: 8 days/ 7 nights
Activity: Trekking and sightseeing
Travel style: Guided
Difficulty grade: Moderate to strenuous
Comfort: Various (hotels, guesthouses, home-stays, and mountain huts)
We couldn’t be more excited to introduce this gem of an adventure. The “Peaks of the Balkans” trek is the winner of multiple prestigious global awards and offers a truly unique and immersive adventure travel experience. When the trail was first created in 2012, the intention was to help redefine the understanding of the Balkans as a place with more to offer than a region of conflict.
Mission accomplished.
The trail runs through a mountain range called The Accursed Mountains, also known as the Albanian Alps. While the name lends itself to all sorts of obvious metaphors, hiking here is much more of a blessing than anything else. With some of Europe’s most pristine scenery, ancient pastoral traditions little-altered by modern life, and a title to capture the imagination, the Accursed Mountains make for a wild holiday with a palpable element of time travel. The trail winds through largely uninhabited areas and tiny settlements where residents are seasonal shepherds and farmers living a lifestyle of a bygone era. The locals are warm, welcoming, and are always anxious to share a laugh.
These peaks, which span the borders of Montenegro, Albania, and Kosovo, were once difficult to access, especially during the days of communist control. No longer. Nowadays, the trek has become an off-the-beaten-path destination, and people from around the world are coming to visit this very remote area. In fact, the area is loosely referred to as the “Nepal of the Balkans.” The mountains are clearly not as high as in the Himalayas, but they are definitely more lonely and untouched.
We are thrilled to offer two versions of “The Peaks of the Balkans” that are entirely unique to Hobnail Trekking Co. Grab a beverage of choice, get comfortable, and spend some time exploring the itinerary and highlights!
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Peaks of the Balkans
Dates are subject to slight changes. These treks will proceed with groups of at least 4 with a maximum of 18.
July 6-13, 2024
August 24-31, 2024
September 21-28, 2024
Peaks of the Balkans Details
Hike in areas free from mass tourism
Although the Peaks are becoming more popular, they are still an undiscovered gem relative to almost any other trekking destination on the globe. Traffic on the trail will be very light for all but a couple areas.
Village of Theth
Situated in northern Albania’s Shkodra region, this unique mountain village — reminiscent of Bilbo Baggins’ Shire — has the most dramatic setting in Albania. Theth National Park combines the beauty of mountains with majestic rivers, stunning waterfalls, and lagoons as blue as one could ever imagine. Enjoy it before the word gets out!
Valbona Pass
On a clear day, Valbona Pass reveals breathtaking views of the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps – Maja Jezerces (8,840 ft), Maja e Boshit (7,925 ft), and Maja Madhe (8,400 ft) – as well as two equally stunning valleys — Valbona on the east, and Theth on the west.
Grebaja Valley
A narrow valley wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (8,075 ft) and surrounded by high sharp peaks resembling the titanic jaw of a Balkan wolf, the Grebaja Valley is one of the most awe-inspiring in the entire Balkan region.
Ropojana Valley
The Ropojana Valley, formed long ago by a glacier over 16 miles long, features a pupil-shaped karst spring where an ice-cold river is born from melting snow high up in the mountains. The mountain-framed corridor takes us past a dry lake, shepherd huts, and an abandoned military post right into the heart of the Albanian Alps. A weathered borderstone is the only reminder of the once tightly sealed borders of former communist Albania.
- Hobnail Trekking Co. long-sleeve trekking shirt and ball cap
- Custom Hobnail mobile app
- Lots of freebies
- Opportunities to get to know your fellow trekkers include an invitation to a private Facebook group for your trek, group training hikes if trekkers live in proximity to each other, and other local social gatherings
- Accommodation for 7 nights in a mix of hotels, guesthouses, homestays, and mountain huts (most with private bathroom and shower)
- All meals on the trek as specified in the itinerary
- Local, English-speaking leader and guide(s)
- One or more support vehicle drivers and pack animals and their handlers
- All National Park fees, entrance fees, taxes, and permits
- Arranging the issuance of border crossing permits
- Daily luggage transport to the next accommodation of one soft bag up to 33 lbs per person
- All ground transfers and baggage transfers as listed in the itinerary, including airport transfers
- The company of new friends and the experience of a lifetime
- Travel insurance (See the Travel Insurance section on this page for details)
- International flights
- Entrance Visa
- Meals not included on the itinerary
- Drinks other than table water
- Tips for leaders, guide(s), and porters (we’ll give you guidance on this)
- Spending money, including for souvenirs
- Personal trekking equipment (hiking boots, clothing, etc.)
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, etc.)
- All expenses associated with nonscheduled departure or transportation to next village if unable to continue hiking
OK, here’s where we get serious. Hobnail requires that all trekkers purchase travel/medical insurance that covers them properly for all trekking activities.
There are a lot more details you need to know about travel insurance than we want to put in this limited space — including stuff about trip cancellations and what company we recommend — so when you’re ready, pop over to our Travel Insurance page.
We consider our treks to be adventures, not vacations. We’re not Hobnail Vacation Company, after all! Don’t get us wrong; we like vacations as much as the next person, but with our treks, you need to be physically and mentally ready. Here’s what we ask of you:
- You thoroughly read all the information we send you prior to departure.
- You get yourself an accountability partner and train properly. This doesn’t mean doing a few squats two weeks before departure.
- You familiarize yourself with your gear prior to leaving. Practice adjusting your backpack, filtering water if necessary, etc.
- If you purchase new boots, they are broken in well in advance of departure.
- When on trek, you FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS OF YOUR GUIDE. His or her only concern is helping you achieve your goal safely and in good health, but this won’t happen unless you follow their advice. This includes – but is not limited to – food recommendations, speed of pace, when to sleep and when not to, when to walk and when to rest, when to turn around due to illness, etc.
- When on trek, you treat your guide and the locals you encounter with the utmost respect. We are guests in their country and very grateful to be there.
All of these things may seem like common sense — and they are — but we feel that we must mention them. Hobnail’s goal is to provide you with the best experience possible, and you have an important role in achieving that goal.
A few days after registering for a trek (with at least a $500 deposit), we will give you a call (if you’re available) to say hello and answer any initial questions you may have. If you have a Facebook presence, we will also invite you to join a private group page just for your trek. This is a great way to interact with your fellow trekkers, and possibly your guide, before departure. You can post questions in the group anytime you’d like, talk about the cool gear you’re planning to take with you, organize group hikes if you live near each other, and generally just get to know those who will be sharing this incredible experience with you.
Within the first weeks after your trek is confirmed, you will receive a Welcome Box from us. It contains stuff that you can use during training as well as on the trek itself, and some other just fun things to get you (even more) excited about your trip.
You’ll also receive a login to our Hobnail app, which is full of great information including a day-by-day schedule, nearby points of interest, beautiful photography, and yet another way to contact us – through its messaging service. As your trip gets closer, we will load your flights and other more specific information into the app so you’ll feel even more secure in knowing where you’ll be staying and even how to get around the airports you’ll travel through.
The closer you get to your trek, the more you’ll hear from us — but of course, you can reach out any time you have a question.
What happens if my trek is not confirmed?
If the minimum number for the trek you booked is not reached before the 60-day booking deadline, you will be eligible for either a refund or to transfer your deposit to another trek. See details HERE.
Our Mobile App
When you book, we send you the login credentials to your own, customized app. By departure, your app will contain your flight info, passport, travel insurance docs, and COVID info, as well as your full itinerary, points of interest, and other amazing stuff.
TREK ITINERARY
Day 1: Arrival in Podgorica, Montenegro (130 ft) and transfer to Theth Valley, Albania (2445 ft)
Welcome to the Balkans!
On arrival, you will be met by your trek leader and transferred by private vehicle (approximately 3 hours) directly from Podgorica Airport to the village of Theth (Albania), a small hamlet at the foot of the Peaks of the Balkans trail and the starting point of our trek.
Theth is a unique mountain village that boasts the most dramatic setting in Albania. Theth National Park combines the beauty of the mountains with majestic rivers, stunning waterfalls, and lagoons as blue as one could ever imagine.
Edith Durham, a famous English traveler and writer on the Balkans, visited Theth in 1908. She wrote of its seclusion: “I think no place has where human beings live given me such an impression of majestic isolation from the entire world. It is a spot where the centuries shrivel; the river might be the world’s well-spring, its banks the fit home of elemental instincts – passions that are red and rapid.”
Established in 1966, Theth National Park covers an area of 6,500 square acres and ranges in altitude from approximately 3,935 ft to 8,420 ft (summit of Mt Radohima). This picturesque beauty is fit for any postcard or painting, but nothing comes close to seeing Theth with your own eyes.
You’ll have a meet and greet with your local guide before the briefing that covers your itinerary. For dinner (on your own), you’ll enjoy typical Albanian specialties at either the restaurant in your guesthouse or one of the other delicious options in the village.
Accommodation: Guesthouse in Theth (double or triple occupancy)
Day 2: Theth – Waterfall of Grunas - The Blue Eye of Theth
Today’s walk doesn’t have many gradients but is rich in culture. The first point of interest you’ll see along the trail is Kishna e Thethit — the Church of Theth — which dates back to 1892. Next you’ll visit the Blood Feud Tower, a four-sided stone structure over 400 years old, and discuss the “Kanun of Lekë Dukagjin,” the century-old oral regulatory code of the mountains.
You’ll continue to the Waterfall of Grunas, an impressive sight with a nearly 100-foot-high cascade of plunging water. A swim may seem tempting, but be warned— the water comes straight from the heart of the Albanian Alps and is downright icy! The rugged and narrow canyon of Grunas in close proximity adds to the magical atmosphere, with crystalline waters running through it for more than 3,280 feet.
Upon crossing the canyon, a 40-minute hike will take you into the heart of the village of Nderlysa. In this village, you will discover Vaskat e Gurit (literally ‘Stone Bathtubs’), which are awe-inspiring rock formations carved out by the Black River and set amongst crystal-clear turquoise waters. Post-hike, there is no better place to take a refreshing dip!
You’ll then hike further to the narrow valley of Kaprre. The Black River descending from the village of Kaprre creates yet another majestic pool — The Blue Eye of Theth. It is a karst pool fed by a gushing mountain stream that enters from the valley of Upper Kaprre. With a rich-blue color and surrounded by lush greenery, the Eye is a magical sight. The bravest (or craziest!) of your group can take a dip in the icy waters.
Finally, you will trek back to Nderlysa where a transfer will take us to Theth for dinner (on your own) and overnight at the same guesthouse as yesterday.
Difficulty Level: Easy
Hike Details: 5.6 miles, ▲ 740 ft ascent, ▼ 1640 ft descent, 6-7 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse in Theth
Day 3: Iconic hike from Theth to Valbona (3265 ft)
Today is a big day.
You will do one of Albania’s most iconic hikes – from Theth, over the Valbona Pass (5,890 ft), to the valley of Valbona in the heart of the eponymous national park. Valbona National Park covers an area of more than 30 square miles in the surrounding valley, walled in by massive mountain peaks such as Maja Jezerces, Maja Rosit, and Maja Kolata.
The 9-mile route follows the path of an ancient mule track linking the tribal regions of Shala and Nikaj. The hike is a continuous ascent through an ancient beech forest, shaded and lovely. Up and up you will go until you reach the pass with views all the way down to Valbona Valley, your next destination. The trail winds through a narrow crest that reveals a view of both valleys. The path is the most traveled trail of the Albanian Alps and it remains the only direct connection with Valbona Valley.
When reaching the top of Valbona Pass you will experience a serious shot of adrenaline. On a clear day, you’ll have breathtaking views of the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps (Maja Jezerces at 8,840 ft, Maja e Boshit at 7,925 ft, and Maja Madhe at 8,400 ft), and across two valleys (Valbona on the east, Theth on the west).
From there the rocky path continues downhill toward the springs of Valbona and a forest trail that will lead you to the village of Rrogam (3,610 ft). You will continue a couple of miles further on a dry riverbed before reaching your guesthouse.
Horses and mules have carried your baggage here, to your next guesthouse. Pack light as it’s a long day for them, too.
After this whole-day hike, relax before a well-deserved dinner.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Hike Details: 9 miles, ▲ 3445 ft ascent, ▼ 2625 ft descent, 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse or hotel in Valbona
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 4: Valbona - Persllopit Pass (6690 ft) - Cerem, Albania (3775 ft)
This will be yet another amazing day.
There are two possible routes from Valbone to Cerem: the low valley route, and the spectacular high route via the Persllopit Pass — which is the one we recommend. The high route is quite demanding but also very rewarding, revealing views of the steep rocky mountains of Kollata, which are popular among climbers. The low trail is mostly a dusty road offering less in terms of scenery but quite suitable for those who would like to have an easier walking day. (We will make this decision based on the wishes of the group.)
After a short transfer, you will have reached the starting point of the trek. First, you have a long ascent to the Persllopit pass that has been looming in front of you. Step by step you climb over lonely alpine pastures and through shady forests, with the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps always in view. Past the pastures, you’ll reach a treeless alpine valley where, surrounded by rock, the solitary mountains are all yours.
Over a unique ice cave and through a karst labyrinth that requires surefootedness, you’ll pass over the border and into the territory of Montenegro. Halfway through the descent, you may find a very rare endemic plant: Lilium albanicum, the Albanian Lily. Keep an eye out, because it’s beautiful!
After an hour, the grassy plateau leads to another lower pass and you return to Albania, meeting shepherds on your way to the rather isolated village of Cerem.
You’ll descend into a gorgeous valley populated by shepherd families living in the shadow of a stunning, Yosemite-like wall of granite uplift. This off-the-beaten-track destination is an area of outstanding natural beauty thanks to the lush green meadows alongside rustic farm buildings that are topped with traditional wooden roof tiles.
Without mobile phone coverage, everyday life here is a world away from what you’re used to – and that’s a very good thing. In Cerem, you’ll spend the night in a simple guesthouse. The warm hospitality of your hosts and the hearty traditional dinner with ingredients fresh from the garden make up for the rustic accommodations.
This leg is one of the most strenuous, but beautiful and satisfying, stages of the Peaks of the Balkans trek and any mountain lover will enjoy walking it.
*Note: If the weather doesn’t permit crossing the Persllopit Pass, we will walk a shorter route through a canyon to reach our guesthouse in Cerem.
Difficulty Level: Moderate to strenuous
Hike Details: 8.7 miles, ▲ 3610 ft ascent, ▼ 2790 ft descent, 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse in Cerem
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 5: Cerem – Dobërdol, Albania (5740 ft)
Today involves a transfer hike from Cerem to Dobërdol, a remote village accessible only by mule tracks and populated exclusively during summertime by shepherds.
You’ll start on foot over undulating terrain in beautiful alpine scenery, leaving Cerem and the Kollata mountains behind. Your bags are loaded on horses once again and you make your way first on a forest path with grassy clearings, then on a gravel road, until reaching the Montenegrin border. Continuing into Montenegro territory, you’ll hike for a while until you come to the ruins of the old military border post. Continuing on, you’ll take a break in the hamlet of Balqin, which is used by shepherds during the summer season. Several springs and creeks along the way are safe sources from which to fill your water bottle.
The last leg of the walk takes you to the valley of Gashi, a UNESCO Natural World Heritage site as of 2017. You will arrive at the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol, where domestic animals roam freely among the grazing grounds and time appears to be frozen. The main attractions in Dobërdol are the glacial lakes of the Dobërdol-Sulbicës plateau. This is the perfect, most pristine location to relax for the afternoon.
Here, locals still live in harmony with nature, as humankind did millennia ago. In the simple shepherd huts, you trade 21st-century comfort for the warm hospitality of your hosts. The family will prepare your meals as you learn more about the seasonal lifestyle of the shepherds while you sit around the campfire.
Without any light pollution, here you can plainly see the Milky Way in a clear sky.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Hike Details: 9.6 miles, ▲ 3360 ft ascent, ▼ 1475 ft descent, 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Mountain hut with basic facilities
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 6: DOBËRDOL via the summit of Trekufiri (7760 ft) and Hrid Lake to Plav, Montenegro (3085 ft)
This long stage of the trek involves a hike from the remote shepherd’s village of Dobёrdol to another, less-remote shepherd’s village in Kosovo – Milishevc.
You’ll fuel up at breakfast because the longest stage of your journey lies ahead of us — around 11.2 miles. You’ll start by climbing approximately 1,970 feet over barren, rocky meadow paths up to the summit of Trekufiri. The name Trekufiri means “three borders” and it makes total sense — you are in the triangle where the borders of Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo meet!
A path now leads to the northwest in a panoramic, high-altitude hike along the Albanian-Montenegrin border with a view of the green ridges of Montenegro on one side and the steep Albanian mountains on the other side. After a while, you’ll reach a beautifully situated ruin with a sunken roof: an abandoned border post from the Yugoslav era.
Keep on hiking, up a valley to the right, leading you to a small pass. Descending, you’ll arrive at the biggest lake of the whole Peaks of the Balkans circuit: Lake Hrid. According to many, it is the most beautiful mountain lake in all of Montenegro. The clearness of the water here was an inspiration to many legends. One of them says that the Lake was created by the Gods as a hidden bathing place for fairies, far from human eyes. It is set in a spectacular landscape with high pine and spruce trees and interesting rock formations. It is a very peaceful place, and you’ll enjoy resting and swimming here.
The way down from the lake to the town of Plav is really easy and the pastoral landscapes are stunning. Since the beginning of your walk on the Peaks of the Balkans trail, you’ve probably been amazed by the invaluable biodiversity that exists in the area. This is very unique in Europe. Seven thousand different kinds of plants are gathered in this small area of the Balkans, many of which are endemic. Also, for example, you can find 130 different species of butterflies here. There is no intensive farming, either, which means no pesticides at all.
At last, you have a view overlooking the little town of Plav, facing the impressive Mt. Visitor and the large Plav Lake.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Hike Details: 11.9 miles, ▲ 1475 ft ascent, ▼ 3775 ft descent, 7-8 hours
Accommodation: 3-star hotel in Plav
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 7: Grebaja Valley, Montenegro – Prokletije massif (8840 ft)
You’ll begin the day by ascending through a shaded beech forest, followed by a steep climb to the double peak of Popadija and Talijanka (6745 ft). From the top, there is a magnificent view – first to the nearby Karanfili, and then to the Prokletije massif and down to the beautiful valley of Grebaja. Here the hostile mountain walls seem almost within your reach as your gaze is drawn across the border, into the Kelmend region of Albania. You’ll choose the most suitable route, a ridge walk offering staggering views of the craggy Karanfili Mountains, nicknamed – with good reason – the “Dolomites of Montenegro.”
The Grebaja Valley, a narrow valley wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (8075 ft), is one of the most awe-inspiring in the Balkans. The valley is U-shaped, surrounded by high sharp peaks resembling the titanic jaw of a Balkan wolf. This is a true paradise for outdoor lovers and is a “must-see” for everyone hiking the Peaks of the Balkans trail. It is only a slight detour from the official route and is truly something you will never forget.
During the return journey, you will pass the rock carvings (petroglyphs) dating from the Neolith Age of 600 years B.C. Among other Paleolithic carvings, you’ll find a primitive drawing of a wolf attacking a child. Yikes!
Traversing the narrow spine to a series of panoramic viewpoints, and back onto the shaded forest path, is where this circular hike ends. In a garden on the valley floor, you’ll celebrate your achievement and this incredible adventure. Well done, you.
Enjoy your last dinner in the Balkans before sleeping soundly in your guesthouse this evening.
Difficulty Level: Easy to moderate
Hike Details: 6.2 miles, ▲ 3115 ft ascent, ▼ 3115 ft descent, 6-7 hours
Accommodation: Guesthouse
Meals Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner
Day 8: Departure through amazing Cem River Canyon
After breakfast, you will be transferred to the airport in Podgorica (46.6 miles, 2.5-hour drive).
Shortly after the border crossing between Montenegro and Albania, you will be greeted with a breathtaking view of the valley of the Cem River and the mountains of Montenegro and Albania.
The Cem River rises in Kelmend, Albania, and after nearly half of its length, crosses into Montenegro, where it pours into the Moraca River near the capital city of Podgorica. The river’s basin is a source of very high biodiversity, and hundreds of plant and animal species live along its banks. The Cem River passes mostly through limestone terrain where many karstic formations can be seen. The terrain through which it flows is at its highest elevation of more than 3,935 feet and its lowest at just 165 feet. As its elevation declines, it passes through narrow valleys and steep canyons before reaching the Zeta plain and the city of Podgorica.
Tamare is the main town in the Albanian region of Kelmend and – with international support – has been restored over the last few years. You’ll stop for a cup of coffee at the pretty village square. After crossing the border between Albania and Montenegro, you’ll have a final 30-minute drive before reaching Podgorica Airport.
Thank you for joining us for this adventure! We hope you had a great time and that it’s not your last visit to this spectacular region.
Meals Included: Breakfast
GENERAL INFORMATION
About Montenegro
Montenegro was recognized as the 27th independent state in the world by the Berlin Congress, which occurred on July 13, 1878. For much of the 20th century, Montenegro was a part of Yugoslavia, and from 2003 to 2006 it was a component of the federated union of Serbia and Montenegro. Montenegro gained full independence in June 2006.
About Albania
Albania is a small, mountainous country in the Balkan Peninsula, with a long Adriatic and Ionian coastline. Along with neighboring and mainly Albanian-inhabited Kosovo, it has a Muslim majority — a legacy of its centuries of Ottoman rule. Around 20% of the population are Christians, divided mainly between the Orthodox and smaller Catholic denominations.
About Kosovo
Kosovo unilaterally declared independence from Serbia in February 2008, after years of strained relations between its Serbian and mainly Albanian inhabitants. It is recognized by the United States and some European Union countries.
After the break-up of the former Yugoslavia in the 1990s, Serbia responded to separatist pressure from Kosovo by launching a brutal crackdown on the territory’s Albanian population, which was only brought to an end by the NATO military intervention in 1999. Until 2008 the province was administered by the UN.
Peaks of the Balkans
Dates are subject to slight changes. These treks will proceed with groups of at least 4 with a maximum of 18.
July 6-13, 2024
August 24-31, 2024
September 21-28, 2024
